Services · Windows & Doors

Windows, locks, and doors fixed in your driveway

A window stuck down in August or a door that won't lock isn't a body shop problem. It's a mechanical one: a motor, a regulator, an actuator, a latch, or a handle inside the door. I take the door panel off, replace what's broken, and put it back together on site.

I don't do body work. Dents, panels, paint, and glass are someone else's job, and I'll say so on the phone.

Text (512) 980-4368 Call for emergencies

Texting is best — I'm usually mid-job and can't pick up. Stranded or an emergency? Call.

No fix, no fee diagnostics
Quoted price is the final price
12 mo / 12,000 mi parts & labor
I come to you

What it's doing, and what it usually is

The most common cause first. It's a guide, not a diagnosis. That's what the visit is for.

Window won't move, no sound: The motor, the switch, a fuse, or the wiring into the door. The wiring in the door jamb flexes every time the door opens, and eventually it breaks.
Window grinds, or drops into the door: The regulator. The cable frays or the plastic clips let go. The motor is usually fine.
Window goes down but not up: Usually the switch. Cheap.
Door won't lock or unlock with the fob or the switch: The lock actuator in that door. One door at a time is the actuator; all doors at once is the fob, a fuse, or a module.
Door won't latch shut: The latch mechanism. Stop driving with it held shut by the seat belt and call.
Door won't open from inside, or from outside: The handle, the cable to the latch, or the latch. Which side it fails from tells me which.
Handle came off in your hand: A common one on trucks of a certain age. The handle, sometimes with the cable behind it.
Tailgate or hatch won't open: A latch actuator or the handle. Getting in to fix it is half the job.

What I do in your driveway

Window motors and regulators, and the switches that run them.
Lock actuators, latches, and lock cylinders.
Interior and exterior door handles, and the cables and rods behind them.
Door wiring, especially the harness in the jamb that flexes to death.
Tailgate and rear hatch latches and handles.
A temporary fix to get a stuck-down window up and secured until the part arrives, so you're not driving with a hole in the truck.

How the money works

$150: Flat, to diagnose it. It's separate from the repair. If I can't find what's wrong, you don't pay it.
Quote: Before anything comes apart. The price I give you is the price you pay. If I find something else, I stop and ask you first.
12 / 12k: Months and miles, parts and labor. If the repair doesn't hold, I come back and fix it free.

Travel is free within 30 miles of Bastrop. Further out, there's a flat travel fee. The full warranty terms spell out what's covered.

Questions I get asked

The window's stuck down and it's about to rain. Can you get it up?

Yes. Even if the part has to be ordered, I can usually get the glass up and secured on the first visit so the truck is weatherproof until I come back.

Is it the motor or the regulator?

If it makes a noise and doesn't move, or moves crooked, it's the regulator. If it's silent, it's the motor, the switch, or the wiring. On a lot of vehicles they come as one assembly anyway.

One door won't lock with the fob. Is that the fob?

No. If the other doors respond, the fob is fine and that door's actuator has failed. If none of them respond, then we look at the fob, the fuse, and the module.

Do you do windshields?

No. Glass is a glass shop, and they'll come to you as well.

Do you fix dents while you're in the door?

No. Windows, locks, and mechanisms, yes. Body work, no. I'd rather do a few things well than one of everything badly.

Often goes with this

All services

Let's look at the windows & doors

Flat $150 to diagnose it, and you get a price before anything gets taken apart. Mon–Fri 9am – 6pm.

Text (512) 980-4368 Book a diagnostic

Stranded or an emergency? Call (512) 980-4368 — for anything else, a text gets to me faster.