Services · Diesel Repair
Diesel trucks, fixed where they're parked
If your truck is how you make a living, three days in a shop bay is three days of not working. I work on diesel pickups and work trucks on site: glow plugs, injectors, fuel systems, turbos and boost leaks, DEF and emissions faults, dual batteries, alternators, cooling. Most of what stops a diesel can be fixed in a driveway or on a job site.
Rebuilds can't, and I don't do them, engine or transmission. You'll hear that from me at the diagnosis, not after.
Texting is best — I'm usually mid-job and can't pick up. Stranded or an emergency? Call.
- No fix, no fee diagnostics
- Quoted price is the final price
- 12 mo / 12,000 mi parts & labor
- I come to you
What it's doing, and what it usually is
The most common cause first. It's a guide, not a diagnosis. That's what the visit is for.
- Hard start on a cold morning
- Glow plugs or the grid heater, one of the two batteries down, or air in the fuel. Cold shows up a weak diesel faster than anything.
- Cranks and cranks, won't fire
- Fuel supply. A lift pump, a clogged filter, air in the system, or on common-rail trucks the high-pressure pump. Occasionally a crank sensor.
- White smoke
- Unburnt fuel. Glow plugs, an injector, or low compression. If it smells sweet, it's coolant, and that's a different conversation.
- Black smoke
- Too much fuel or not enough air. A boost leak, a dirty filter, an injector, or a tired turbo.
- Low power, or limp mode
- A boost leak, a stuck EGR, a loaded DPF, a sensor, or a clogged fuel filter. The scan data narrows it fast.
- DEF warning with a countdown
- A DEF heater, a quality sensor, a NOx sensor, or the injector. The countdown is real: at zero the truck derates to a crawl. Don't sit on it.
- Rough idle or a miss
- An injector, or bad fuel. A cylinder contribution test tells me which hole.
- Both batteries dead
- One bad battery pulling the other down, an alternator, or a draw. Replace them as a pair, or the new one gets dragged down too.
What I do in your driveway
- Fuel filters and water separators, lift pumps, fuel lines, and air-in-fuel faults.
- Injectors on many engines. Glow plugs and grid heaters.
- Turbo and boost leak repairs: hoses, clamps, intercooler pipes, and the turbo itself where it's reachable.
- EGR, DPF, and DEF system parts: sensors, heaters, injectors, and the wiring to them. Repaired, not deleted.
- Dual batteries, alternators, starters, and the heavy cables between them.
- Cooling, belts, and an oil change alongside any of the above.
How the money works
- $150
- Flat, to diagnose it. It's separate from the repair. If I can't find what's wrong, you don't pay it.
- Quote
- Before anything comes apart. The price I give you is the price you pay. If I find something else, I stop and ask you first.
- 12 / 12k
- Months and miles, parts and labor. If the repair doesn't hold, I come back and fix it free.
Travel is free within 30 miles of Bastrop. Further out, there's a flat travel fee. The full warranty terms spell out what's covered.
“He's worked on both my diesel truck and my van — these are large vehicles — and handled a wide range of repairs and maintenance… Everything was done quickly and efficiently. He showed up on time, communicated clearly throughout the process, and got a lot of work done in a short amount of time. It saved us a ton of hassle not having to take our vehicles into a shop.”
Questions I get asked
Which trucks do you work on?
Ford Powerstroke, GM Duramax, Ram Cummins, and the diesel vans and half-tons that have arrived since. If yours is something else, ask. The basics are the same.
Do you do DPF or EGR deletes?
No. It's illegal on a vehicle that drives on the road, and I fix emissions systems rather than remove them. If the DPF is genuinely plugged, there are legal ways to deal with that, and we'll talk about them.
The DEF light says 200 miles. How urgent is that?
Urgent. When it hits zero the truck derates itself to a crawl and stays there until the fault is fixed. It's often a sensor or a heater, and it's a lot easier to fix in your driveway than on the shoulder of 290.
Should I replace both batteries?
Almost always. Two batteries in parallel age together, and a new one paired with a tired one gets dragged down to match it within months. I'll test both and tell you honestly if one is genuinely fine.
Do you do farm diesels too?
Tractors and diesel UTVs, yes. They've got their own page, but it's the same approach and the same limits.
Often goes with this
All servicesEngine Repair
Knocking, misfiring, losing power, or leaking oil. Most of it I can do on site — and I'll tell you straight if it needs a shop.
Farm Equipment
Tractors, UTVs and ATVs. If it runs on your land and won't start, it's worth a call.
Transmission
Slipping, hard shifts, or a clutch that isn't biting where it used to. Diagnosis first, always. No full rebuilds, and fluid service is a drain and fill, not a flush.
Based in Bastrop, free travel within 30 miles. Where I go, and what it costs further out.
Let's look at the diesel repair
Flat $150 to diagnose it, and you get a price before anything gets taken apart. Mon–Fri 9am – 6pm.
Stranded or an emergency? Call (512) 980-4368 — for anything else, a text gets to me faster.